Choosing a Healthy Rubber Plant for Propagation
To successfully propagate rubber plants, select a healthy mother plant. Choose a plant with a sturdy main stem and lush, green leaves. The mother plant should be at least 2-3 years old for the best results. Look for new growth shoots that are 6-12 inches long with 2-3 leaf nodes on the stem. These shoots will have the highest chance of developing roots.
According to gardening experts, the best time to take rubber plant cuttings is during the active growing season in the spring and summer. New growth will produce more roots due to active plant hormones. Sterilize your pruning shears and take 6-12 inch cuttings from the mother plant. Remove the bottom 1/3 of leaves, leaving the top leaves intact. You can dip the cut end in a rooting hormone (auxin) which will speed up root development, though it is not required.
Place the new cuttings in a well-draining rooting medium such as perlite or a mixture of peat moss and perlite. Keep the medium moderately moist but not soggy. Indirect light and high humidity will help the new cuttings develop roots in 1-2 months. Once new leaves begin to form, you’ll know your rubber plant cuttings have rooted and are ready for transplanting into well-draining potting soil.
Preparing the Right Soil Mix for Rubber Plants
The key to successfully propagating rubber plants is providing the right soil medium. Rubber plants thrive in lightly moist yet well-draining soil. A suitable potting mix should contain ingredients such as perlite or pumice to improve drainage and aeration. Good options include:
Perlite: Coarse, lightweight perlite creates air space in the potting medium and prevents overwatering. A mixture of 2 parts perlite to 1 part peat moss or compost works well. Perlite is difficult to rewet once it dries out, so check the moisture level frequently.
Peat moss: Sterilized peat moss helps retain moisture while still allowing excess water to drain. Combine 1 part peat moss with 1 part perlite or vermiculite. Peat moss has a slightly acidic pH, so check your rubber plant’s requirements before using.
Compost: Well-rotted, organic compost introduces nutrients to the potting mix and helps improve soil structure. Use no more than 1/3 compost in the potting mix, combined with ingredients like perlite, peat moss, or vermiculite. Compost that is not fully broken down may promote disease if used in large amounts.
Vermiculite: Expanded vermiculite is lightweight, retains moisture, and releases nutrients as it breaks down. Combining 1 part vermiculite with 2 parts peat moss or compost creates an ideal rubber plant potting mix. Vermiculite may compact over time, so additional perlite is often added.
Maintain moderately moist but not soggy soil. Allow the top inch or so to dry out before watering. Never leave your rubber plant cuttings sitting in water, as this can lead to root rot. New roots will form in 1-2 months. Once new leaves begin emerging, you can transplant your rooted cuttings into a well-draining potting mix. Fertilize during the active growing season and prune to shape.
Taking Cuttings: When and How to Do It Right
The optimal time to take rubber plant cuttings is during the active growing season in late spring through early summer. New growth has the highest rooting potential due to active plant hormones. In the fall and winter, growth slows down, reducing the plant’s ability to readily form roots.
Select a 6-12 inch shoot that has at least 2-3 leaf nodes. Use sharp, sterilized pruning shears and cut the shoot at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node. Remove the bottom 1/3 of leaves, leaving the top leaves intact. Fewer leaves mean the cutting will lose less moisture before roots form. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional), then insert into your prepared potting mix.
Auxin, a rooting hormone, can speed up root formation for difficult plants. Look for a product containing indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), such as Dip ‘N Grow. Follow the directions carefully, as too high a concentration may cause damage to the cutting. For most plants, a 1,000 to 3,000 parts per million (ppm) IBA product works well for stem cuttings. While rooting hormone is not required for rubber plant cuttings, it may speed up rooting time.
New roots will form in 1 to 2 months. Check for resistance when gently tugging on the cutting. Look for new leaf growth, which indicates the cutting has rooted and can be transplanted. Once rooted, plant your new rubber plant in well-draining potting mix and place in bright, indirect light.
Mist your cuttings frequently to keep the potting mix moderately moist but not soggy. Never leave cuttings sitting in water, as this can lead to root rot. High humidity will also help your cuttings develop roots, so consider placing them in a plastic bag or under a humidity dome. Remove once new leaves start to emerge. Fertilize the new plants during the growing season and prune as needed to shape.
Rooting Hormones: Do You Need Them?
Rooting hormones, also known as auxins, are plant growth substances that stimulate root formation in plant cuttings. The most common auxin used for propagating plants is indole-3-butyric acid (IBA). Rooting hormone comes in powder, gel, and liquid forms. For most plants, it is not essential but can speed up rooting and increase the success rate of propagation, especially for difficult or slow-rooting plants.
Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) is a synthetic auxin that promotes cell division and root growth. Common trade names containing IBA include Dip ‘N Grow, Rootone, and Wood’s Rooting Compound. IBA is available in concentrations from 1,000 to 50,000 ppm. For most plants, a concentration of 1,000 to 3,000 ppm works well for stem cuttings. Always follow the directions carefully, as too high a dose can damage cuttings.
For plants like rubber trees that root readily, rooting hormone is not required but may decrease propagation time. It can also increase the success rate for more difficult subjects. The gel or powder forms are convenient for home use, while the liquid form may require diluting to the proper concentration. The powder and gel adhere directly to the cutting, which may provide quicker absorption than the liquid form.
Certain plants, such as begonias, geraniums, and pansies, produce their own rooting hormones and do not require synthetic versions to root successfully. However, for woody plants, evergreens, and plants known to be difficult to propagate, rooting hormone can make a difference. Examples include hollies, magnolias, rhododendrons, and fruit trees.
If opting to use a rooting hormone, be very careful to avoid contamination. Always wipe the scissors in between cuttings, and avoid reusing the rooting hormone on multiple plants, as disease transmission is possible. Label cuttings to avoid confusion later. New roots will emerge in 1 to 2 months for most treated cuttings. Once rooted, plant your cuttings in well-draining soil and provide bright, indirect light.
Caring for New Rubber Plant Cuttings
Once your rubber plant cuttings have been taken and treated with rooting hormone (optional), proper care will ensure successful propagation. Place the cuttings in a warm area with bright, indirect light. Direct sun can damage new cuttings before roots form. A temperature of 65 to 80 F is ideal.
Keep the potting medium moderately and regularly mist the cuttings and nearby leaves to increase humidity. Allow the top inch or so of potting mix to dry out between waterings. Never leave cuttings sitting in water, as this can lead to rot. Roots will form in 1 to 2 months.Until then, the cutting relies solely on moisture absorbed through the leaves.
For extra humidity, place cuttings under a plastic dome or bag. Open briefly once a week or so to prevent disease. Remove the dome once you see new leaf growth emerging, as this indicates the cuttings have rooted. At this point, you can begin to acclimate the new plants to normal humidity levels.
Check for rooting before watering by gently tugging on the base of the cutting. Resistance indicates roots have formed and are holding the cutting in place. New roots will be white and firm, not dark or mushy. Avoid fertilizer until roots establish to prevent chemical burn.
Once rooted and new leaves start emerging, you can begin fertilizing at 1/2 the recommended strength every few weeks during the growing season. Discontinue feeding in the fall and winter when growth slows down. Never fertilize a cutting before roots form.
Prune the new plants once they put on new growth to shape them. Remove any dead or damaged leaves and shoots. Propagated rubber plants may be more tree-like compared to older plants, so pruning will help create fuller plants. Repot once roots fill the current container.
Wipe pruning tools with isopropyl alcohol between plants to avoid disease transmission. Label your cuttings after rooting to avoid confusion.With the proper care and conditions, your new rubber plant cuttings will root and establish in a few months. After a year of growth, you may need to repot your new plants.
Transplanting and Growing Your New Rubber Plants
Once your rubber plant cuttings have developed roots and new leaf growth, it is time to transplant them into well-draining potting soil. Select a container one size larger than the current one. Fill it with a loose, peat moss-based mix for houseplants. Dig a hole in the center and place the cutting in, burying the top inch or so of the cut end to promote new root growth. Water thoroughly after transplanting.
Place your new rubber plant in bright, indirect light away from drafts. Maintain moderate soil moisture, allowing the top inch to dry out between waterings. Fertilize every 2-4 weeks during the active growing season using a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at 1/2 the recommended strength. Discontinue feeding in the fall and winter when light levels and temperatures decrease.
Prune your rubber plant once a year in the spring to promote bushiness. Remove any dead or crossing branches and shoots. Wipe down leaves periodically to increase sunlight absorption and improve photosynthesis.
Repot when roots become crowded, typically every 2-3 years. Choose a container one size larger and replenish some of the potting mix. Bury a bit more of the stem with each repotting to encourage stability.
In colder climates, rubber plants grown indoors may become dormant in the winter. Decrease watering and fertilizing from fall through early spring. Once warmer weather returns and new growth starts, resume a normal care schedule.
With the proper conditions, your new rubber plants will establish quickly and become beautiful houseplants. While relatively easy to care for, some issues to watch out for include root rot from overwatering, spider mites, and scale. Propagating and growing your own plants from cuttings is rewarding, and a great way to multiply your houseplant collection for free.